National costume

haracteristic trait of traditional Ukrainian clothes is an extreme picturesqueness which reflects the high level of manufacture, proficiency in many kinds and furnish technics. Considerable variability is inherent in national clothes. Distinctions in the costumes, which occurred on the Left bank and the Right bank, and Podolia were the most appreciable. It also refers to traditional clothes of Pondnestrovye, Carpathians, Polesye and Southern Ukraine population. Materials for clothes; constructive, technological and decorative methods of its creation; ways of separate details manufacture: headdresses, footwear, ornaments; technician colour and ornaments motives, especially, shirts and belts which almost till the end of XIX century had stored ancient local features, and also ways of wearing and combination of all elements of clothes in a full, complete complex of clothes, first of all, was noted by regional specificity. Elements of Ukrainian national costume concern:

Shirt - one of the most ancient elements of clothes. In the days of the Kievan Russia the shirt served as under, and so the outer clothing and, which sewed from a canvas or woolens. Ukrainian shirt of the end of XIX - beginnings of XX century had a considerable quantity of variants and ornaments, it corresponded to several appointments. Those were racily designed celebratory, and more reserved daily shirts which were made of cloth of different quality. The basic types of the shirt were: tunik-like; with humeral inserts; with solid sleeve, on the coquette. Local specificity was shown in the means of connection of humeral insert and sleeve, in the size and form of humeral insert of sleeves and flapper (wedges, which were sewed in the sleeve for arm-hole expansion), in collar and cuffs design. The size of details, amount of panels depended on width of the homebrew cloth (on the average 50 sm) which was defined by weaving loom possibilities. The local originality of the shirt was presented by ornamentation, which was performed by weaving or embroidery technics. Provision of husband and other members of the family with unwhisperables by tradition was performed by the wife. The groom brought two-three shirts to the house from his native family. After engagement the bride prepared the unwhisperables for the future husband, and frequent already on wedding the groom was dressed in the shirt which the bride had sewed and embroidered.

Andarak - a skirt from the woollen or half-woollen self-made fabric of red colour with the folds pledged behind, which were decorated by the wide strip of the woven and embroidered ornament below. Andarak was used mainly in the north of Chernihiv region. So the skirts from striped self-made fabric were named on Polesye.

Yupka (jacket, kohta) - is the breast clothes with the sleeves, known in different regions of Ukraine. It was more often sewed from factory fabrics and repeated the form and a cut of local sleeveless jackets.

Kersetka - the female sleeveless jacket, which had many local variants of length, proportions, dressing. It was worn mainly in Kyiv, Chernihiv, and Poltava area, partially in the south of Ukraine. The most developed forms kersetka aquired in the second half of XIX century when not only main principles of its breed, but also local features concerning proportions, colour, furnish were accurately defined.

Sleeveless jacket - is a fur sleeveless jacket, wide-spread among population of Carpathians and Prikarpatye. It had considerable local variability concerning length and design methods, depending on region.

Derga - (opinka, wrapper, gorbotka, phot) - oar clothes, frequently made from the self-made woollen fabric. It was wide-spread on Podolia, Prikarpatye, Bukovina, and also in Poltava region. Derga had big amount of variants of woven drawing, color score, sizes and ways of wearing.

 Leibeek (bruslik, katanka, gorset) - woolen sleeveless jacket of Carpathians foothills and flat part of the Western Ukraine and Polesye inhabitants.



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